Ride De Tea Country
Rider: Abu ZainabBike : Yamaha FZDuration: 2 days
It’s been really long since I went for a ride, me and my bike. After the Kakkayam chapter last Ramadan, my mind was yearning for a ride. The biker inside me was compelling for the next. Even though I went a couple of times to Ernakulam, that was purely for business. So I couldn't enjoy them. Always the same boring highway and route. There was nothing to write about. But this time it was different. I decided to change the route.
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| The Luggage |
I had some work in Ernakulam on the first week of May. I completed the task by Friday, 6th of May evening 7:00 pm and came to my room. My mind was getting restless.
I was thinking and doing lots of calculations. Should I go or not???
Finally, I decided to get rolling.
The next question was about the destination. Since the temperature in Kerala was terribly hot (the real feel temperature in many places where above 45°C. It reached up to 49°C in Calicut), my heart was repeating the same answer every time; Munnar - The Tea Country. But my wife was insisting me to change the destination. I've promised her two years back that I'll take her to Munnar. So she continued asking that we will go together to Munnar. After much of "Hmm” and "Eh"' I disconnected the phone and pondered over that. Then I remembered the words of my friend, Angel, "Jaseem! The route from Theni to Munnar is one of the best in India. It’s as close to heaven as you can be". I was also waiting to explore this route for long. So, I decided to ride to Munnar, then to Theni and then back to Calicut through Munnar. I was not satisfied with this route as I always prefer taking different routes while traveling.
Now the next question arose. When to leave?
My heart told me: "Jaseem. Now!"
Mind: "Not now. You're tired. Take rest and start early in the morning."
That’s when my phone rang. It was my mom. I told her about the dilemma.
"Beta, don't take too much risk. Sleep till you're energetic and then start the journey", she said.
No more thinking now. I retired to bed after Isha Salah.
The odo displayed 250 km. Remember, I rode from Calicut 2 days back. Without wasting much time, I started riding towards Munnar via Kothamangalam. After Perumbavoor, I began searching for some good restaurant where I can park my bike within my vicinity. I was searching for such a restaurant for kilometers with no luck. Finally, I found this restaurant called 'Manthoppu' (translation: Mango Tree plantation) around 9 am. Only two items were on Menu. I ordered the traditional: Kappa (tapioca) and Fish curry (I still don't know what fish it was). The food was worth the search. If you have to ride all the way from Ernakulam just for this curry, still it would have been worth the effort. I started browsing some hotels in Munnar in ‘Make My Trip’ and ‘Goibibo’ to stay in, but couldn't find a good deal.
Putting an end to my anticipation, the waiter arrived with Kappa and fish curry with a gigantic piece of fish in it. The curry was unbelievably tasty as well as spicy. Believe me! I'm writing this with water in my mouth. I wanted more, but out of fear what the spice would do in my belly, I winded up with just one plate of Kappa and an idiyappam. As usual, I had a black tea, ‘Sulaimani,' over the food and paid the bill of just Rs.145. Not wanting to waste time. I rode towards Munnar.
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| Kappa and Fish Curry |
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| Manthoppu Interior |
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| On the road but safe |
My next stop was at Thalakkode, a ‘Y’ junction just before the Cheeyappara waterfalls. I had tea there and asked the lottery women there about the road towards the right. She told that leads to Idukki. Immediately I took out my tab and Google mapped the route, and I found that there is an alternate route to reach Theni via Idukki and Cumbum. Not giving it a second thought, I started my bike and took the right turn towards Idukki.
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| Road towards Idukki |
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| Enroute Idukki |
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| The side view |
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| The front view |
After a few kilometers up the road, I was stopped by the Police. Since the elections in Kerala and Tamil Nadu were around the corner, the security checking was austere; and I had huge luggage covered with a tarpaulin on my back and a camera bag on my fuel tank.
"From? To? Why?", the police officer asked.
"I'm coming from Ernakulam, now heading towards Idukki. It’s a small bike trip for leisure", I replied.
"What’s in the bag?", inquired the officer.
"A few books, my dresses, some camera equipment’s and my Laptop."
" Oh, so you've got a small family on this bike," he said jokingly, to which I greeted him with a wide grin. Before he asked me any further questions, I took out my Driving license and visiting card and said the papers of my bike is inside the luggage. He was kind enough not to make me unpack the entire luggage. I thanked him and started my bike.
A majority of the lands en route were under Kerala State Electricity Board. A lot of their projects were to be seen on the way. No one except KSEB staff could enter the premises, so I couldn't get inside any of the sites even though the gate was wide open and no one was around.
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| In front of a KSEB project |
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| A KSEB project |
As I was nearing Idukki, I saw this board displaying some destinations. I had no idea where to go or what to do. So, I stopped somewhere near Idukki Township and Googled about the attractions there. I decided to pay a visit to Idukki dam since I've ridden all the way till Idukki. First I went towards the Hill view park near the dam. Since I could not park the bike within my reach, I skipped the viewpoint and moved towards the mighty Idukki & Cheruthoni dam.
Idukki Dam
The Idukki Dam is a double curvature arch dam constructed across the Periyar River in a narrow gorge between two granite hills Kuravan and Kurathi in Kerala, India. At 167.68 meters, it is one of the highest arch dams in Asia. Constructed and owned by the Kerala State Electricity Board, it supports a 780 MW hydroelectric power station in Moolamattom, which has generating power since 4th October 1975.
This dam was constructed along with two other dams at Cheruthoni and Kulamavu. Together, these three dams have created an artificial lake that is 60 km² in area. This stored water is used to produce electricity at the Moolamattom Powerhouse, which is located inside nearby rocky caves.
I arrived at Idukki dam around 11:30 am. I was mesmerized by the beauty of that magnificent structure. But the officials there dropped a bomb on me saying that photography was prohibited in and around the dam premises. I even thought of going back, but my heart told me:
"Jaseem, you may not come here again and again. This is one of the must visit dams in the whole world. Just pay a visit. It won't take much time."
I went to the ticket counter and the guy there assured me the security of my luggage. You have to cross Cheruthoni dam first to get to Idukki dam. The whole stretch was somewhere around 4 km long. I didn't feel that walking 8 km in scorching sun is a good idea. So I decided to ride on a solar-powered 10-seated vehicle for the tour. It turned out to be a right decision.
The driver of that vehicle, Mr. Joy, was a helpful guy. He was the one who insisted me on visiting Calvary mount, which was on my way to Kattappana. There is a cave after Cheruthoni dam called Vaishali cave, named after a film shot there which can be visited only if you are traveling on foot because the vehicle won't stop there as it takes more than half an hour to climb up and down the cave.
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| Cheruthoni Dam |
I was relieved, seeing my baggage safe. I started as soon as possible from there. Mr. Joy told me about a road from where I can capture a long sight image of Idukki Dam. But I couldn't find that. Maybe I took a wrong turn.
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| On the way to Calvary Mount |
A few kilometers ride from Idukki dam, and I was near Calvary mount. I had to climb a steep road towards the entrance. It was a Pilgrim spot for Christians. I got the tickets and parked my bike at a safe place and walked towards the viewpoint with my camera. A few steps and I was overwhelmed at the beauty of that valley. The cool breeze along with that breathtaking view just blew me away. I indulged myself in that heavenly environment for the next 45 minutes. Even though I didn't want to leave the place, I had to.
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| The Entrance |
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| Towards the right |
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| The valley |
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| What a location to rest |
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| You can rent these huts for private use |
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| Panoramic view of Calvary mount |
I was confused on whether to go to Thekkady or skip it. I dialed my friend, Angel, to discuss over this and he suggested me not to go there as there is nothing but boating in Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. And someone alone with a bike and large luggage can get into trouble. As per his instructions, I decided to proceed towards Theni. That too turned to be a wise decision. Thanks, buddy.
By that time, I was feeling hungry but had no appetite for heavy meals, so I decided to have tea and some snacks. I found a small tea shop near Milma, Kattappana division. Stopped there for a strong tea and gulped down some delicious fried snacks.
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| Those were delicious |
The climate was cold as the sun was hiding behind the clouds. I was now in search for a masjid to offer both my Dhuhr and Asr prayers. But I couldn't find one where I can keep my bike safe.
After Kattappana the sun came out and was in no mood to hide behind some clouds. I was now becoming uncomfortable as the time was around 1:30 pm and the sun was angry. Finally, I spotted a masjid off the road but was happy that I can stop my bike near to me. Usually, I used to have a Musalla (prayer rug) with me in travel, but I missed it this time. So I was forced to offer prayer in masjids only. The water was cool, and that was a real relief in such scorching climate. After my prayers, I started towards Cumbum-mettu, that was the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border. I reached there in no time as it was just a few km away from that masjid.
Few army men were sitting there at the check post. I asked them the way to Cumbum to which they remained silent. I repeated the question, and they still kept their mouth shut. Maybe they're the followers of our PM. Someone on the other side directed me towards the right direction. Immediately after the border, the tarmac started disappearing. The roads were nothing but gravel and potholes.
"Welcome to Tamil Nadu"
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| Cumbummettu to Cumbum |
I thanked the PWD minister of Kerala for such fantastic roads throughout Kerala. Later I realized that the roads in Tamil Nadu were superb, but worst only at the state borders. Anyways the ride for next few kilometers was a nightmare. (Let our PM not see this stretch of road. He may compare this with some other planet). Just after 2-3 kilometers my back started aching that I was forced to stop. I got off the bike and stretched my back.
I had a water bottle with me. As I was drinking water, someone from Cumbum side stopped his bike near mine. We got into a conversation, and I enquired about the road ahead. He told the road for 4-5 more kilometers will be the same, but once you reach Cumbum, the road will be super smooth. He suggested me to bypass Theni and head towards Bodinayakanur that can save me a few kilometers as well as a considerable amount of traffic. I decided to reach Bodi by 5:00 pm so that I could find some place to stay in Bodi or reach Munnar by 7:00 pm. Thanking him, I left the place.
A few more kilometers passed the valley of Cumbum started unveiling itself. At first, it was not visible properly because of the trees. But the very first view of the valley made me forget the tiresome stretch in a split second. It was mind blowing! I couldn't resist stopping there for a few clicks.
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| First view of Cumbum |
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| Panoramic view of Cumbum |
As it was nearing Cumbum, the roads condition started improving drastically. The narrow roads through the empty fields were at its best. One could easily maintain an 85kmph on this stretch.
"Welcome to real Tamil Nadu!"
I was very close to Cumbum and suddenly felt something was strange. I was riding through very narrow roads between houses where people were throwing strange looks at me. I didn't remember any detours, but I'm sure that I've lost my way. Realizing I might have made a mistake; I asked someone about the Theni highway. He directed me to another narrow road, and I took that path. That was when I realized that the highway was just a few meters’ parallel to the road I was on. Anyways, I jumped on to the Theni highway, which appeared to be better than a National Highway.
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| Road to Theni |
After a few kilometers, I took a left turn towards Bodinayakanur. Initially, the road was narrow but proved to be wide after a few minutes of the ride.
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| Road to Bodi |
The police / army checking was high; fortunately, no one stopped me. I stopped for tea after some time. The 'Akka' made me an excellent tea, that helped me boost my energy level. She asked me a lot of details about the trip. I answered to all her question while I was sipping the tea. After tea, when I was about to leave she told me: "Thambee, paathu pongappa" (brother, be careful). I gave her a broad smile and cruised towards Bodi.
I didn't stop even to check the time at Bodi. I took a turn to Munnar (decided to stay at Munnar). I took my break after Munthal check post at the starting of the cliff towards Munnar. That’s where I saw this Tamil Nadu, State Road Transport Corporation (SRTC) bus with a sticker on its rear glass:
“From The Land of temples (Madurai) to the Tea Country (Munnar)”
That was the inspiration for the name of this article. The bus was struggling hard to attain a speed of 40 kmph ascending with all its luggage. I tried to take few photos of my bike mirror to get both foreground and background in a single frame, but I was not able to focus nor set the frame because I didn’t have the patience and badly wanted a leak. I just winded up the photo session as soon as possible and searched for a place to relieve myself, but of no use. I left from there, hoping to find a masjid on the route, but couldn’t find any.
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| Couldn't focus |
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| The SRTC |
Once you are on the bike, you may get a little relief because of the vibration, so I decided to go forward. There was something I shouldn’t be missing on my ride up. The typical ‘Theni-Munnar Highway’ photo that depicts the roads, I was searching for that view too. Suddenly when I was shifting a gear up, my leg muscle got cramped, and I had to stop the bike. But I was happy that I stopped at the exact spot I was searching for the perfect frame. I then clicked some pics, emptied the bladder, had a face wash and waited for the muscle to relax.
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| The typical Theni-Munnar Image |
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| A Zoomed out version |
The next stretch was a fascinating one. The temperature started going down as the ride and elevation climbed. Excitement was also cruising up. That feeling when you are climbing towards a hill station is something exquisite. Immediately after the Kerala border, a group of Police/Army stopped me. After the same Q&A session (But very serious this time), they let me go. I went to the next petrol bunk and refueled the bike.
Somewhere near the cardamom hills, the two roads diverged into lush green meadows. And I took the narrow one. But I made a mistake by taking a break just before the junction. An SRTC bus overtook me, and I felt nothing wrong in that. But all my calculations went wrong when the driver (?) of that 30 kmph massive vehicle made me tailgate him for the next 5-6 km. I was continuously trying to overtake him by flashing the pass lights, but very less honking, he was blocking my path intentionally. I wonder how such an idiot and arrogant fool got a job in SRTC. After much persuasion, I got tired and took the riskiest step. I got my vehicle off the tarmac. A small mistake and I’ll be in that canal on the right or will crash with the bus on the left. With no much of thinking, I opened up the throttle and overtook that stupid and shouted at the top of my voice, “Get lost you, Idiot.”
Afterward, the road was splendid and scenic, with cardamom plantation peeping out at some places and the climate was turning really cold. But I maintained a good pace so that I won’t see that idiot again. But the very first view of tea gardens forced me to stop there and click some photos. The bus then did not come my way, but I winded up with photos as soon as possible and continued the journey.
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| The First tea Estate |
There were two options, either stay at Devikulam which was 10 km from the current location or continue to Munnar riding seven more km from Devikulam. I stopped by a viewpoint some 10 km before Devikulam and started enjoying the climate. I saw that bus overtaking me, but didn’t mind as I was in no mood to leave the place soon. I spent some good time there and left towards Munnar.
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| Posing at the view point |
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| Yet another pose |
After a few more kilometers I reached a tea stall overlooking a beautiful valley. I stopped there for tea around 6:45 pm. As the guy prepared the tea, I went around clicking some photos.
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| The tea stall |
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| The valley View 1 |
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| The Valley View 2 |
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| Portrait view of the Landscape |
There I befriended a little boy who was engaged in some small works in the shop. His name was ‘Seenu.' On inquiry about accommodation, he dialed someone and handed over the phone to me. I was looking for a room that would cost around Rs.500. But all the rooms there were above Rs.1500. After negotiating with Mr. Raja, he agreed to give me the room for Rs.800. Seenu gave me his number and told me to call him on reaching Devikulam junction. I thanked Seenu and continued towards Devikulam.
I stopped at Devikulam junction and dialed Raja only to find that all networks except BSNL did no help there. I searched for a Coin booth and dialed Raja only to realize that the number I got from Seenu was wrong. Locals told me that all rooms were full as it was season time as well as a weekend. I cursed myself for not booking the dormitory that was available @ Rs.289 in Goibibo. That was when someone told me about a cheap homestay called “SKR Cottage.” I met the owner Mr. Sivalingam and requested the room. He allotted me a room for Rs.1000. After negotiation, the amount got down to Rs.500. But the hassle was that I had to wait for two hours so while the current occupant vacates and they can clean the room. I unloaded the baggage and kept at his house, had food at his daughter’s restaurant nearby and left to Munnar for some shopping. I came back around 9:00 pm and offered my Maghreb and Isha prayers in the room and retired to bed.
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| The Room |
DAY 2:
Immediately after my Fajar prayer, I left the room with my camera for a photo hunt. The moment I stepped out my jaws dropped, and I said: “Subhanallah.” The climate was such that one gets lost themselves in that. One can imagine the joy to experience such a climate during May. I was speechless. Munnar sang me good morning with this splendid view of Foggy hills and valleys. I headed to the nearby tea stall and had a morning tea.
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| Good morning |
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| Misty Hills |
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| The wake-up view |
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| Droplets |
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| Covered in mist |
All of a sudden, I remembered yesterday’s Valley. How would that look this morning? I decided to get there quickly. I immediately started my bike and left without even taking my helmet. That was the best hour I had on the whole trip. Munnar offered the best of it in that one hour. I was on cloud nine. I had to frequently wipe the camera, fearing the water droplets may get inside. Out of excitement I even trespassed into the Tea estate to get the best pictures.
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| On the way to the valley |
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| Good morning |
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| More.. |
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| And more... |
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| The sun rises |
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| And more... |
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| And more... |
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| And more... |
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| And more... |
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| And more |
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| The rising sun |
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| And more... |
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| The sunny effect |
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| The panoramic view of the Valley |
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| The poser |
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| I think these are beautiful |
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| Cruise in the mist |
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| A Selfie |
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| Misty tea estates |
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| Posing again |
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| More flowers |
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| A small detour |
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| The SKR Cottage |
After the photo session, I headed back to the room and packed my bag. I didn’t wait for Mr. Sivalingam to wake up. I rushed towards Hotel Saravana Bhavan, Munnar. The food quality has gone down than my last visits. Anyways I left the busy restaurant as soon as I completed the ‘Paper Roast.' The temperature in Munnar was slightly warmer than that of Devikulam.
I then headed towards Mattuppatty dam. I couldn’t manage to stop there for even a single photo, so I continued to Echo point.
I then headed towards Mattuppatty dam. I couldn’t manage to stop there for even a single photo, so I continued to Echo point.
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| Enroute Mattuppetti |
A few hundred meters to echo point I found a small trail that leads to the lake. I didn’t have to think much before turning my bike there. That was a picturesque location. I clicked some beautiful pictures from there and returned to Munnar.
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| Near the lake |
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| Close up |
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| Panoramic view of the lake |
Now the tourists have started crowding all the spots. I lost my interest in visiting any more places. I decided to get back to my little Zainab back here in Calicut. I was confused on which route I should take back home as there were two available:
- Munnar-Perumbavoor-Angamali-Thrissur-Calicut
- Munnar-Marayoor-Chinnar-Pollacchi-Palakkad-Calicut
I opted for the second one as it was more scenic and exciting. A few kilometers down the road, I stopped near at shade of some trees, stretched my back and laid on the concrete slab for a good 15 minutes. The famous Iravikulam National Park (famous for Nilgiri Thar) was just a few kilometers on the away. I didn’t enter there as it was too busy but was stuck up in the long queue of vehicles on the road. Even though I had the advantage of riding a bike, it took me good 30 minutes to cover that 1 km stretch dodging between the vehicles. I stopped immediately after that stretch and took an energy break. I was feeling exhausted and dehydrated, so I stopped at some shop bought a packet of glucose powder and some chocolates.
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| The traffic I crossed near Iravikulam National park |
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| Lush green tea estates |
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| Again |
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| And again |
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| Another selfie |
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| Testing the timer on my cam |
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| WOW!!! |
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| Was that Real? |
The heat was climbing as I was descending and also the sun was shining brighter. I stopped at Marayoor for a “back break” and continued towards Chinnar Wildlife sanctuary. Marayoor is known for its sandalwood plantation - The only natural growing sandalwood forest in the world. Immediately after the sandalwood forest, the heat turned intense, but worst was on its way.
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| Marayoor Sandalwood Forest |
A few kilometers I was stopped again by my back pain at some tree shade. I heard some sound from bushes. It was shaking but could find who it was. Fear and excitement caught me at the same time, and I stood there confused- Should I leave or stand here? Putting an end to my excitement a huge BISON arrived off the bush!! OMG! Just three meters away. I was dumbstruck. Somehow I managed to hop on my bike and run away. “Alhamdulillah” (meaning: All praise is to Allah)
The heat was getting real extreme. Even my breath was creating flames in my balaclava. I was yearning to ride in shades, but it was just rocks to my left and brownish green colored valleys to the right. After a few kilometers, it was just dry lands with some trees on either side. I was stopped the third time for checking at Chinnar check-post. The policewoman repeated the whole procedure and left me but had to enter the bike registration number and my address this time. Just a few minutes ride and I was stopped by the Tamil Nadu check-post. The officer on the road told me to go to the one sitting inside. I told him about the whole trip as he seemed very interested. He was excited but asked me: “Your butt must be swelling right?” I was shocked to hear that comment. I grinned at him. Then he said: “Bro, it’s too hot out there, so do one thing. Have food and take rest until 5 pm. Proceed only after that”. I bid him farewell and left towards Udumalpett.
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| Entering Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary |
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| Even this shade was cool |
Now I started searching for a good Restaurant to have Lunch. I found one named “Annasalai” just before Udumalppett. On inquiry with localities, I was informed the food quality was ‘The Best.' Even though it was too hot, I sat down in Non-AC section so that I could have my eyes on the bike. But the bearer asked me to park the bike far away which I couldn’t. So I decided to find some other restaurant.
I typically prefer not to dine and stay within the city. But this time hunger forced me to stop right at the heart of Udumalpett town. I was searching for some traditional Tamil lunch but ended up having chicken biryani. Then I was on the highway cruising towards Palakkad. By the time it was four, I was sipping an aromatic filter coffee at McD Palakkad.
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| Nearing Udumalppett |
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| Windmills @ Pollachi |
I was planning to take the route through Peringode which was shorter than through Mannarkkad. But the security at McD came to my rescue. He told me not to take that route as it was busy and also Mannarkad road was in better condition, that helped. The traffic was less than expected and I could gain pace much quickly.
The next stop was for my prayers: Asr & Zuhr. What a mercy from Allah! You could shorten and club two prayers while traveling; Alhamdulillah. I stopped at some masjid and completed the task. While getting out I could sense the sky turning darker. The land around Silent Valley was expecting a heavy downpour. You could even see the rainfall far away at the hills of Silent Valley. A few minutes of waiting and it started in all its might. I wore a jacket and covered my camera bag with a cover and cruised towards Calicut. With very fewer breaks in between, I reached home around 7:30 pm after experiencing all four climates in a single day.
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| The Route traveled |
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